A sufi shrine’s special day.

[Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi]

During the day, the marble courtyard stays sparse, serene, and silent. At night, it darkens, growing more silent. Tonight (March 18) will be an exception. The courtyard shall stay awake with crowds, bright lights, and musical qawwalis.

The Sufi shrine of Hazrat Chirag Dehlavi is today celebrating the 688th urs, or death anniversary, of its saint–in Sufism, a mystic’s death is not mourned but celebrated, marking his union with the beloved, who is God.

Despite its status as an important centre of Sufism, the dargah in south Delhi rarely draws throngs of pilgrims or tourists. Maybe because it is not easily approachable, ensconced beyond a dense warren of houses, shops, stalls and alleys. In modern times, the historic shrine has grown more secretive, and lends nothing of its character to the locality. Although the locality takes its name (Chirag Dilli!) from the dargah.

In a dramatic contrast to the cramped surroundings, the shrine is forever filled with space and shanti. The saint’s tomb stands in the centre of a sprawling courtyard dotted with giant trees. The grave chamber within has a chandelier hanging down by a long chain from its vaulted ceiling. While scores of graves belonging to lesser-known mystics lie across the courtyard, like a lake’s frozen wavelets.

The shrine’s patron saint was born in Ayodhya. On settling down in our city, he became a disciple of mystic Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, who made him his spiritual successor. After miraculously lighting a chirag—earthen lamp—with water instead of the usual oil, he acquired the title of ‘Roshan Chirag Dehlavi,” the glowing lamp of Delhi.

Hazrat Nasiruddin Mehmood died seven centuries ago, and was buried where he had lived. During his life, this area was a bayaban, a jungle. To this day,, the shrine continues to preserve the solitude of a jungle. Besides its utmost peacefulness, the most remarkable aspect of the sacred place is its dynamic relationship with daytime luminosity. Take this afternoon. The mid-March sunlight is raining down over the compound, forming congruous patterns across domes, stone jaalis, and arched taaks. Even these simple walls have turned into panels of artful shadows, their shapes shifting slowly-slowly with the deepening afternoon.

The Urs starts this evening with customary prayers. The qawwalis will begin at 11 at night, and last until early morning—says Syed Irfan Ahmad Nasiri, a dargah caretaker. Last week, he went to Chandni Chowk to shop for light bulbs, jhaalar, and plastic flowers to decorate the dargah. Dressed in white, he agrees to pose for a portrait. This being Chirag Dehli’s dargah, he decides to hold a burning chirag. But the day is too windy. The chirag’s flame is dying out the instant it is lit. Suddenly, a pause in the wind. This time, the tiny flame survives.