Mission Delhi – Chand Nizami, Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah Faith Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - May 28, 2026May 28, 20260 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] At 64, Chand Nizami is beginning a new chapter. After performing for more than two decades with his nephews Shadab and Sohrab as part of the celebrated Nizami Bandhu qawwali group, the veteran qawwal says he will now perform separately. “I’ll no longer be seen with my nephews,” he says. “I want to start new innings.” Plus, his three sons have grown into young men, and he wants to sing with them instead. He describes his sons as pioneers in “techno qawwali.” The decision marks a significant shift in the world of qawwali at Delhi’s Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah, among the most important centres of Sufism. Qawwali, the
Mission Delhi – Arshi, Central Delhi Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - May 28, 20260 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] The midday is turning out to be intolerable. The summer air is so searingly hot that even the shirt collar is burning the neck. One wonders how can we the people survive in such hostile conditions. Yet we do. Take this market lane in a Central Delhi locality. It is a blinding white afternoon, and the lane is moderately crowded. Vendors are parked along the street-side, though not a single tree stands on the street. One man is sitting beneath the skeletal shade of a potted plant, his eyes closed. And then there is Arshi, an alm seeker. She sits directly under the sun. No shade near her.
Mission Delhi – Pawan Kumar Tomar, Sri Nivaspuri Depot Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - May 18, 2026May 18, 20261 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] In the American film Paterson, the hero, played by Adam Driver, is a city bus driver who writes poetry, earnestly jotting down the lines in a notebook. In Delhi, there is a man as striking as that film actor. Plus, Pawan Kumar Tomar too drives a city bus, with the Delhi Transport Corporation. And he too writes poetry, earnestly jotting down the lines in a notebook. His poems have appeared in the poetry anthology Aaj ke Hindi Kavi (Contemporary Hindi Poets). Indeed, his notebook rests openly on the dashboard beside the steering wheel, a blue-ink pen tucked into its lined pages, ready for use during breaks. “As
Mission Delhi – Zareef, Central Delhi Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - April 29, 2026May 18, 20260 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] The afternoon heat is as palpable as a solid surface. It is slamming down from the sky, and roaring up from the tarmac. Per the mobile, the temperature is hovering around 41°C. Fruit seller Zareef has a headache. He gulped water a minute ago; he’s thirsty again. This afternoon, the soft-spoken man is selling muskmelons—kharbooja. Even the fruit is hot to the touch. A biker stops, his face covered with a kerchief. “Very sweet, very sweet… 60 rupees a kilo!” The fruit seller murmurs. Zareef is suffering from the prematurely advanced heat of late April, but he isn’t alone. Millions across Delhi are bracing against the same heat.
Mission Delhi – Bhaichand Patel, Sujan Singh Park Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - March 26, 2026March 26, 20261 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] On 14 February, the venerable Bhaichand Patel did not host his annual Valentine’s Day party. In fact, he hasn’t hosted it for three years in a row. This has been a profound setback for the capital’s fashionable set. After all, for over two decades, Bhaichand’s Valentine’s Day party was a fixture on Delhi’s social calendar. The last one, in 2023, convinced him he would never host it again. This afternoon, seated with a glass of white wine in the back garden of his apartment in central Delhi’s Sujan Singh Park—where the mildly warm March air is alive with the chirping of sparrows—he explains why. Many familiar faces
Mission Delhi – Andrea Anastasio, Central Delhi Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - March 17, 2026March 17, 20260 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] The entire wall is covered with a woman’s black-and-white portraits. In each one of them, she is dressed in black, and happens to be a mother in grief. This is Andrea Anastasio’s bedroom. The head of the Italian Cultural Centre, Andrea lives in a central Delhi apartment. Hundreds of books fill the home. Dozens of objects—statuettes, paintings, photographs, artful lamps, some designed by Andrea himself—are arranged with the affection of someone who lives among things not as possessions but as companions. Guests to the apartment tend to wander slowly, pause, gaze, often break into small utterances of “wah wah.” But the bedroom is usually private territory. This
Mission Delhi – Gulab, Old Delhi Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - March 16, 2026March 17, 20260 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] Over the past few years, Old Delhi’s cramped streets have begun to feel even more congested. Much of this is due to the arrival of the so-called battery rickshaw, which has almost entirely replaced the old-fashioned manually driven rickshaw. Battery rickshaws are broader and take up more space in the already narrow lanes. For the rickshaw man, of course, they have arrived as a life-changing relief. Unlike the traditional rickshaw puller, he does not have to squeeze out the last ounce of energy from his exhausted body to drag passengers through crowded streets—sometimes clambering down to haul the vehicle by hand on steep slopes. A good
Mission Delhi – Shourya, Hauz Khas Village Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - February 9, 20260 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] People from across the world come to see this fourteenth-century reminder of the city’s past. The tomb of Emperor Feroze Shah Tughlaq is among Delhi’s great monuments. For Shourya, the monument has never been a destination. It is in fact as much an article of his daily life as the wallpaper in his drawing room. By an accident of birth, he is among the city’s most fortunate residents. 11 years ago, he was born into a family that has been living for generations in Delhi’s tourist-heavy Hauz Khas Village, in a house that directly overlooks the monument. He shares the home with his grandparents, and “Mamma and
Mission Delhi – Usha Singh, Ghaziabad Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - January 19, 20260 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] Despite her advanced years and the physical frailties that come with them, Usha Singh daily ventures to explore the world outside her home. And what if the world she explores exists at the very threshold of her home, and not further? On this cold January evening, the venerable lady is making turns in a tiny cramped corridor right on the landing of her sixth floor flat. In her mid-80s, she walks slowly. At times, she pauses. One arm presses down on her quadripod cane, while the other arm reaches out to the wall for support. She stands motionless in this posture for a few moments, head bending
Mission Delhi – Sunil, On the Road Mission Delhi by The Delhi Walla - January 13, 20260 One of the one percent in 13 million. [Text and photo by Mayank Austen Soofi] This late night, while driving a customer from one part of Delhi to another, citizen Sunil talks of his journey from being a photographer to an auto rickshaw driver. On his passion for photography “Years ago, when I was a student at Delhi University’s Dyal Singh College, I used to travel a lot. I would go to places like Nainital, Rishikesh and Haridwar, and observe the beauty of the hillsides and rivers. I would want to retain those scenes in some tangible form. So I bought one of those small cameras, which used to be widely available during the time. I started taking photos with that camera. Gradually,